I’ve always been drawn to the sea, and when I tried surfing for the first time in 2008, I fell in love. I got pushed into my first wave and I stood up, and it was the most incredible feeling. I kept surfing, on and off, until around four years ago when I really allowed surfing to change my life.
It went from a hobby to one of the pillars of my life, and my desire to keep surfing in my life sparked change in all other areas. I got healthier, I spent more time away from the city, and being in the water was like therapy, it changed the way I looked at my life. Two years ago, I pretty much left everything I had worked on up to that point to find ways to live near surf and bring my other interests into it, like surf photography, as a way for me to explore another dimension of surfing.
What gives me the greatest joy but at the same time is the biggest struggle, is to keep going. Every time I get in the water I learn something new, either about myself or the world around me. I’m constantly learning, constantly a beginner, and that’s tough. Having been raised in the city, I’m still trying to shed this guilt of building a life outside of it.
A lot of people don’t approve or agree, but then again, it’s only because they haven’t come out here and immersed themselves and seen what I’ve seen, that really there are communities and opportunities to live a little differently. It’s scary and uncertain but has so far only brought me so much happiness.
Allow your passion to change your life.
You’re passionate about it for a reason, and don’t play it down or belittle it. It’s worth going for. And really, truly, you can’t fail unless you stop trying. It will ask everything of you but will give you so much more in return.
Story by Sabs Bengzon